Nakupenda Bure Tanzania: A Journey of Conservation, Culture and Connection

By Shelby Dye

24 NOVEMBER 2024

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR

This article was produced as part of the Global Diversity Foundation’s Darwin Initiative-funded project “Mentoring GEN Fellows to incubate Global South biodiversity-livelihoods initiatives”. Through the project, we coordinate a programme to support grassroots conservation organisations in the Global South in welcoming and overseeing Masters’ students from UK research institutions as organisational interns. This offers the organisation support through the production of relevant research and communications outputs and supports the Master’s students by offering them the opportunity to discover grassroots conservation realities in the Global South and conduct research for their MSc theses. 

The following article is by Shelby Dye, an MPhil Conservation Leadership student at the University of Cambridge, United Kingdom. She interned at Traditional Ecosystems Survival Tanzania (TEST) in Tanzania. TEST’s mission is to facilitate effective collaborations that reduce conflict, improve natural resource management, and enhance the sustainable wellbeing of local people, livestock and wildlife in Tanzania’s natural ecosystems. TEST’s Executive Director Yannick Ndoinyo is a member of the Global Environments Network who participated in our Conservation & Communities Fellowship in 2024. 

Disclaimer: This article reflects the voice and opinions of the author and does not represent the Global Diversity Foundation. The views expressed herein are solely those of the author mentioned and should be interpreted as such.

I spent two months in Tanzania for my placement internship, an essential component in completing the MPhil in Conservation Leadership course at the University of Cambridge. While based in Arusha, I travelled across Tanzania, visiting Maasai villages to gather local and indigenous perspectives on conservation policies and practices through community visits, surveys and interviews.

Partnering with the indigenous-led organisation Traditional Ecosystems Survival Tanzania (TEST), I used these insights to help create an organisational strategy and business plan that prioritised the needs and wishes of the community in conservation action planning.

This trip was much more than just work; it was filled with countless memories, lessons and magical moments, two of which stand out vividly: our adventure at the Ngaresero Waterfalls near Lake Natron and the Ngorongoro Crater Conservation Area.

Waterfalls Hiking

To reward ourselves after a week of in-depth community interviews in three different villages, the TEST team and I embarked on an East African adventure, covering the Ngarasero Waterfall Hike in the Great Rift Valley. This seemingly tranquil 40-minute hike led us through peaks, rifts and valleys reminiscent of Tolkien’s Middle Earth. With the help of a skilled navigator, we arrived at the 600m deep Ngaresero Gorge, where our feet were greeted by the warm, sparkling volcanic sands from the neighbouring active volcano, Ol Doinyo Lengai, or the “Mountain of God,” which last erupted in 2008.

We enjoyed stunning cliffside views ranging quickly from desert to savanna and tropical jungle oasis in a few short moments. Our group waltzed through varied, enchanting terrain, unlike any other place on earth. The group held hands as we waded through the waist-deep waters of the Ngare Sero River, and swam together through slot canyons to arrive at our final destination for the day.

As we hiked through the breathtaking landscapes of the Great Rift Valley, the experience offered a powerful contrast to the intense week of community interviews we had just completed. The hike allowed us to reflect on the resilience and deep connection to the land that the Maasai community had shared with us during our conversations. Standing beneath the cascading waterfalls, I couldn’t help but think of the stories we heard from the elders about their ancestors navigating these very terrains. This adventure not only gave us a much-needed break but also deepened our understanding of the harmony between the Maasai people and their environment. It reminded us of the importance of preserving both the cultural and natural heritage we were so fortunate to witness firsthand.

We eagerly trod through large stones and dry heat along a tight, winding path for several meters while admiring the larger-than-life cliffs, and two “baby” waterfalls that hinted at the main attraction ahead. With each step, the anticipation for the final waterfall grew. At last, we reached the waterfall, But the adventure wasn’t over yet. Swimming beneath its cascading flow revealed the hidden grandest waterfall of all, a breathtaking finale to the hike.

We giggled like children and splashed around like professional mermaids for at least 30 minutes. All we could do was laugh and smile at each other in this tropical oasis in the Great Rift Valley. The cool, refreshing water washed away the sweat and dust of the hike, leaving us ready for the data analysis that awaited. At that moment, we were in paradise. 

Ngorongoro Crater

I also celebrated my 30th birthday while in the field in Tanzania. I could think of no other way to celebrate my cosmic Saturn return, than to venture to Ngorongoro Crater Conservation Area, the world’s largest unbroken, unfilled volcanic caldera,  and home to one of the highest densities of wild animals anywhere in the world. The crater is also home to local indigenous Maasai communities who have long inhabited the area. 

The Maasai people of the region are thought to have named Ngorongoro after the sound made by the bell that hangs around the neck of the lead cow in a herd. The bell’s echoing “ngor ngor” sound inspired the local pastoralists to call the area Ngorongoro.

My fellow adventurers and I were greeted at the park gates of this UNESCO World Heritage Site by several families of baboons busy grooming one another and snooping through large sloths of tourists and vehicles. We were advised to keep our windows rolled up to avoid any unwelcome inspections from these curious park residents. 

Unlike other spots in Tanzania, a delightful chill hung in the air as we descended from the jungle into the crater early in the morning. Mist rolled out from the palm trees, spiralling down the vines and spilling into the crater, infusing the already captivating landscape with an air of mystery.

Few moments in my life made me feel more alive than when I was standing upright in the jeep, inhaling dust clouds, and shrieking with excitement each time we spotted an animal or heard the driver’s walkie-talkie buzz with news of a nearby animal sighting. During this adventure, I saw four of Africa’s big five animals – the highly endangered Black Rhinoceros, Lion, Buffalo, and Elephants, the latter bathing in the jungle. I look forward to seeing the elusive leopard on my next inevitable visit to Tanzania. 

I was also overjoyed to witness much of the crater’s iconic wildlife, including several Ostriches, Kilimanjaro Cranes, Thompson Gazelles, Flamingos, Wildebeest, Zebras, Jackals, Kudus, Kori Bustards, Ground HornBills and many species of Antelope, including Impalas and Gazelles. While there are no giraffes in the crater, I was delighted to see two species of giraffe, the Masai and Reticulated giraffes, during my trip through the Great Rift Valley.

At midday, we enjoyed lunch at a watering hole, where at least 30 adult hippos were bathing and performing their ritual water ballets for all to see. My guide had to call me back to the table several times as I was mesmerised by the hippos’ performance, unwilling to miss a single moment of their beautiful dance. To top off this once-in-a-lifetime experience, the magic was amplified by a heart-shaped cloud that rested peacefully over our group as we dined by the water. It was a magical moment that deepened the sense of connection I felt to this land and its people.

Thanks to this life-changing experience, I welcomed a new year of life with an entirely new perspective and appreciation for what it means to be alive. I have an even deeper appreciation for the Maasai people, and their community’s connection to the land through experiencing it for myself in their company.